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and as expected, none of the logs get larger.  It's clear that Apache
simply isn't seeing anything, otherwise, the logs would increase in
size.

I don't think it's a firewall issue because tcpdump sees external www
requests coming from.  From external IP 10.37.247.64 (an iPhone on the
3G network), I point Safari to "http://www.dirac.org" and this is what
tcpdump reports:

root at satan:/var/log/apache2# tcpdump -vv -i eth0 tcp port 80 | grep cingular
tcpdump: listening on eth0, link-type EN10MB (Ethernet), capture size 96 bytes
    satan.www > mobile-166-137-137-082.mycingular.net.4445: Flags
[S.], cksum 0x4d17 (correct), seq 305106526, ack 4022190454, win 5792,
options [mss 1460,sackOK,TS val 1210510762 ecr 842475580,nop,wscale
6], length 0
    mobile-166-137-137-082.mycingular.net.5878 > satan.www: Flags [S],
cksum 0x3dc6 (correct), seq 1346585780, win 65535, options [mss
1410,nop,wscale 2,nop,nop,TS val 842476145 ecr 0,sackOK,eol], length 0
    satan.www > mobile-166-137-137-082.mycingular.net.5878: Flags
[S.], cksum 0xcafe (correct), seq 1206576348, ack 1346585781, win
5792, options [mss 1460,sackOK,TS val 1210513399 ecr
842476145,nop,wscale 6], length 0
    mobile-166-137-137-082.mycingular.net.5878 > satan.www: Flags [S],
cksum 0x3dbc (correct), seq 1346585780, win 65535, options [mss
1410,nop,wscale 2,nop,nop,TS val 842476155 ecr 0,sackOK,eol], length 0
    satan.www > mobile-166-137-137-082.mycingular.net.5878: Flags
[S.], cksum 0xcafe (correct), seq 1206576348, ack 1346585781, win
5792, options [mss 1460,sackOK,TS val 1210513399 ecr
842476145,nop,wscale 6], length 0

Packets from the iPhone are seen coming in.  And packets are being
sent back out to the iPhone.  However, Safari errors out with a
"Cannot open Page" error.  Furthermore, neither
/var/log/apache2/access.log no /var/log/apache2/dirac.org.access get
larger.

On one hand it's "obvious" that Apache isn't seeing these packets from
the iPhone because the logs aren't increasing in size.  On the other
hand, it's not "obvious" because .. why are packets being sent from
satan.www to mycingular.net?

I'm really stumped.  Any ideas?

Thanks!
Pete